People
& their Life Style
Intervening Valleys
Places of Interest at
Dalhousie
Places
of Interest at Chamba
Destination Bharmour
Destination Dalhousie
Destination Churah
Destination Khajjiar
Pangi
Valley is the remotest and yet the most beautiful valley of Chamba district.
Sandwiched between pir- panjal range and
Zaskar range, Pangi valley holds a
great fascination for the trekking enthusiasts as it provides several
unbeaten tracks. The valley is no less important from the scenic point of
view.
Dr. Hutchison has rightly remarked that the Pangi valley is unique in its grandeur and beauty. The scenery is sublime and imposing . Nature appears in her wildest and grandest moods. Everything is on stupendous scale. The great river Chandrabhaga rolls along in a deep and narrow gorge, lashing itself in to fury against the adamantine cliffs that confine it. Precipices spring from the brink in places almost perpendicular to a height of one or two thousand feet. On the lower ranges are the grassy slopes of rich pasture with dense forests of pine and cedar, and the majestic mountains piled on one another, attain an altitude of 18000 to 21000 ft. rising far beyond the line of eternal snow. Every few miles the traveler reaches fairly open nooks of surprising beauty which may have been small lakes in some bygone age, while the river was cutting its way through a rocky barrier in front. There some villages are to be found which are few in number and of small size, for the country is sparsely inhabited. The roads are just what one might except in Such a region, narrow and dangerous.
The other
route is via Lahaul. This route has been opened through road and a Jeep can
ply right up to killar, The headquarters of Pangi valley in fair weather
i.e. in summer. The route is comparatively easier even if attempted on foot
from Rohli. This distance involved is just 45 kilomatres.
Still
another route is through Kistwar (part of J&K State). Distance involved is
much larger by this route. Killar is 116 kilometers for on-foot journey
from Kistwar. The road link has now been provided and small vehicles can ply
from this side up to the boundary of Pangi. This route has of late acquired
more dangerous ramifications owing to
terrorist activities in the area.
When the
valley is locked from all sides in winter , aerial route is the only way
left to and fro movement. Periodical helicopter service is there through it
rarely matures on time owing to uncertain weather on the mountains and in
the valley.
Chandrabhaga
The river
Chandrabhaga flows through all the length of the valley. The river rises
from the mountains of Baralacha pass two heads, the stream with its source
on the south-eastern side of the pass being called the Chandra and the other
one which rises from the north-western side is called the Bhag
a. After the
confluence of these stream at Tandi (Lahaul) the river is generally known as
Chandrabhaga. Earlier, it
was believed that the water of the river came from
China and that is why the name Chanab was coined for this river which
etymologically means water of China (Chin+ab). The Vedic name of the river
is Askini.
The river
valley is quite exposed and extensive up to Mudgraon. Beyond this it narrows
in to a gorge with precipitous cliffs right up to Tindi. From this place
onwards, there is an open expanse for several miles along the left bank. A
stretch of 17 miles beginning at Tindi is wild and rugged. At shour and Purti,
these are villages on the right bank and the river valley again narrows down
as far as Sach and Mindhal. From there the valley spreads out and the river
flows in a north-westerly direction pasta Killar and Dharwas where it
departs from Pangi territory to enter in to J&K State. Various streams
contribute to water of Chanab. Those on the right bank include Sechu Nallah,
Huddan Nallah, Sural Nallah and Sansari Nallah, Chaini Nallah and Sach
Nallah are the major tributaries on the left bank. This river has been used
for floating timber to the plants. The river is almost fishless.
Killar
Killar is
the headquarters of Pangi valley . Pangi valley is coterminous with the
territory sub-division, tehsil and development block. Killar was originally a
cluster of villages but gradually it has taken the shape of a town with more
and more offices and shops added from year to year . In the midst of grove
of 
cedar
trees near Forest Rest House, is the temple of Det Nag. The legend
has it that Det Nag was originally enshrined in Lahaul. It took human
sacrifice turn by turn. Once the lot had fallen on the only son of the poor
widow. She was in utter grief when a Gaddi happened to pass by. The Gaddi
sympathised with the lady and offered to sacrifice himself in place of her
son. The Gaddi laid down a condition before Det Nag that he should be
devoured alive and
presented parts of his body in succession but without
any
result. The Gaddi is said to have thrown Det Nag in to the Chandrabhaga
where it got out of river at Killar and was discovered by a cowherd. Det Nag
was then carried to the site of the present temple when it fell from his
back with the face on the ground. A shrine was erected and the image
set up with its face looking inwards
and clump of cedar trees at once grew up around the shrine.
previously a buffalo used to be sacrificed at this place which practice has
no been discontinued. Goat of sheep are however sacrificed at the temple
even now.
A temple
devoted to lord Shiva is located near Government Hospital. Another Shiva
temple has recently been built in the official
colony near Government Senior Secondary School.
Other Important Places in Pangi Valley
Other Important places mention in Pangi are Dharwas, Luj and Sural towards J&K side. Dharwas is the biggest village of the Pangi valley and in famous for natural spring of mineral water called Tilmili. It is said that water was daily sent to the Raja from this spring. There is a thick forest of widely grown thangi (hazel-nut). Luj is just at a distance of three kilometers and is the only village where chilgoja trees are found.
Sural is a beautiful
sub-valley comprising of a cluster of villages namely Kanwas, Ganmas, Rusmus,
Sural Tai and Suraal Bhatori. It lies at a distance of
12 kilometers from Dharwas towards its north-east. The ideal time to visit
this sub-valley is in July-August when flowers of different kinds blossom.
There is a small Gompa at Sural Bhatori. The Bhots inhabit Sural Bhatori
which is the highest village in the part of the valley. A fine grove of bhoj
patra trees (Butila utilis) are found to exist at this place which is rather
uncommon phenomenon for a height of this place.
Hudan,
Parmar
and Sechu are other beautiful sub-valley of Pangi. Hudan lies at a
distance of eight kilometers towards east of Killar. It is a combination of
village like Seri Bhatwas, Tundrow, Ichhwas and Hudan Bhatori. Near Bhatori
is the famous water spring called Nagni spring. A beautiful view is obtained
from here. Parmar sub-valley consists of villages called Kumar, Parmar and
Parmar Bhatori. The highest villages in the sub-valleys are Hudan Bhatori
and Parmar Bhatori where the Bhots live. There is a Gompa in each Bhatori
where the Bhots worship. Sechu sub-valley is towards east and is at about
17 kilometers from Sach village. Kuthal, Hillor and Sahli are the prominent
villages falling on the way before we reach Sechu proper. Sechu proper is
characterised by the confluence of three nallahas namely Hillutwan nallah,
Chasak Nallah and Sechu Nallah. Other important places surrounding Sechu are
Hillutwan, Chesk and Chasak Bhatori. Hillutwan is 7 kilometers from Sechu
and is constituted of two hamlest, Hillu and Twan situated on the left and
the right bank of Hillutwan Nallah. The Bhots inhabits these villages. To
the opposite side at a distance of 4 kilometers from Sechu lies the Chasak
village preceded by thick lush green forest of cedar trees. At a distance of
8 kilometers from Chesah is located the last village of this stretch and is
called Chasak Bhatori. This village is inhabited by the Bhots and is highest
inhabited place in the valley. Except for trees of bhoj patra, no other tree
is visible at this place.
Mindhal is
another important place of pangi valley at a distance of about 12 miles from
Killar towards south. It is famous for Devi temple which has an interesting
legend attached to it. (for legend places see chapter on 'Famous Temples'.
Purti
and
Shour are the last two big villages towards Lahaul-Spiti which mark the end
of inhabited area of Pangi valley on this side. Purti is known for a forest
rest house where the spirit of Mr. Tudd, a British forest ranger is said to
haunt. Mr. Tudd died due to a slip on the snow while on duty. The people say
that the ghost of Tudd comes out of chimney during the thick of night. A few
claim to have seen the phantom face to face.
Forest
Rest House is set in the beautiful surroundings River Chandrabhaga
is flowing just by its side. Approach to the rest house is flanked by
the popular trees.
Shour is
known for jhula- a swing-bridge made of twigs of willow tree or other twigs
of similar twistable bushes or plants. It is a rare experience to cross the
river from over the jhulla. Jhulla is directly above the torrent and it
swings to and fro while one crosses over it.
Sidh ka
Dera and Cherry bungalow are the other two important places we find on trek
from Killar to Shour. Sidh ka Dera is known for the temple of Sidh Devta
where a fair is held every year. A lot of thangi trees are found here . Sidh
temple has very beautiful carvings to its credit. Cherry bungalow is a small
PWD rest house down the Sach village at a distance of 13 kilometers from
Killar and is picturesquely situated on the right bank of the Chanab. It is
a good halting place while coming to or going from the valley.